A first glance at Lima

Well, well, well. Lima. What is there to say about it? A whole lot. How much of what I say would be depressing at this point? Most of that. I'll give you the Sparknotes version and end with my hope for improvement. In general, my first impressions has been one of danger. It's more than a paranoia; it's a constant threat hanging over my head every time I'm out of one of my "safe zones" like the apartment or the university campus. My first time being a minority has been much more intimidating than I ever would have anticipated. Each interaction makes me feel more nervous. The helpful ones caution us and tell us to keep our things close, speak only in Spanish, and be aware. The hostile ones push us and whisper about the gringas. I don't understand this unmotivated hatred anymore than I understand the way traffic works here. One thing is for certain though- my empathy for minority groups in any place is increasing. It is so difficult to know you are trying your utmost and that it doesn't count for anything in their eyes.

There are areas of Lima that feel more familiar and safe. The wealthier places in particular are comfortable, but they pose a serious challenge to me. If I spend much of my time there, am I really exposing myself to Peruvian life? To intentionally deprive myself of this insecurity I'm feeling now would be to miss the point entirely of traveling to a developing country. In the same way I am pulled to improve my own situation here and shelter myself, I am drawn to find a way to make life better for the people here. Even in the first week I can see how much their quality of life could improve if the water were potable, if transportation were centralized, and if there were a larger police presence in all areas. Mind you, this is only Lima of which I am speaking. Rural areas, I am told, suffer from much greater poverty than Lima and have even worse conditions.

This week has been eye-opening. My fight or flight impulse has been called into play, and I intend to fight my way through the language barriers, the security issues, and all other obstacles. Hopefully, by the end of my first month I will be better at coping and will have found my place here. For now, I'm taking it in day by day.